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For a long time, we had been
dreaming with a visit to Bahia and its capital, Salvador. And when
finally we got there, it was not what we expected. It was much
better! Salvador was the first major port and the
capital of colonial Brazil for almost two centuries,
and even today, nothing in Brazil, in terms of exotic places,
history, ancient culture, traditions and music compares to it.
Salvador is one of those places apart from everything you have seen
before. The photo at left was shot next to Farol da Barra
light house, maybe the most famous landmark of this unique place,
called Salvador.
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If you don't have much time to
visit the city, don't think twice, the right place to be is at
Pelourinho (right). It is the heart of the Old
Salvador, filled
with colonial buildings, winding
cobblestone streets, music,
bars, churches, restaurants,
museums and souvenirs shops. This
is actually a city within a city. Pelourinho means whipping post in
Portuguese, and this was the old slave auction location in the days
when slavery was common. In the 1990's, a major restoration effort
resulted in making the area a highly desirable tourist attraction.
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One more shot at some of the
many Pelourinho's hills, in front of a cozy restaurant.
Nicknamed Pelo by residents this area is in the older part of
the Upper City
(Cidade Alta),
located on the hills, which is opposite to the
Lower City (Cidade Baixa), in front of the sea.
Pelourinho encompasses
several blocks around the triangular Largo
do Pelourinho, the central square. It
is a specially interesting area at night, due to the many music
groups that use to practice along the streets, performing
traditional rythms, music and dance, like Berimbau, Afoxe, Olodum
and Capoeira, all of them brought from Africa by the slaves during
the 17th and 18th centuries. |
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A very special part of a visit
to Salvador is dedicated to its many colonial churches. People use
to say that there are 365 churches in town, but actually there are
not so many. Start you tour visiting Igreja de São Francisco
(right).
Built from 1708 to 1750,
the inside walls are totally covered with gold,
making this a very impressive sight. Visit also Cathedral
Basilica, located at Terreiro de Jesus,
built from 1657 to 1672,
in the upper part of Pelourinho hill, which gave the Portuguese
priests and soldiers, total control over the Todos os Santos Bay,
and helped them watch any enemy ship approaching, like the Dutch or
French. Salvador was built on two levels:
On the upper level were located the main offices,
administrative buildings
and the rich people. On the lower level
were located the docks, the
warehouses, the port and the poor people, a model
brought from Europe by the Portuguese.
Also, do not miss at Pelourinho, Fundacao
Casa de Jorge Amado (Jorge Amado House, one of the
most famous novelists in Brazil) and Museu da Cidade
(City Museum),
both located at the Pelourinho main square. |
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Photo from Humaita
Fort, located some 10 miles south of
Salvador. It was built by the portuguese, and now is open to
visitors as an touristic attraction. Not far from here you will find
the most famous church in town, the Igreja do
Bonfim. When arriving there you
will
be surrounded by children
selling fitas,
small colored ribbons, to tie around your wrist inside
the church when you make your requests. Take
plenty of them, to you and your friends at home. Locals say if must
wear one of those ribbons around your wrist until it falls down,
when finally that long waited dream of yours will come true. |
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Photo from Farol de Itapoan
(Itapoan Lighthouse), located some 15 miles north of downtown. Those
who enjoy shopping have many options, apart from the shops at Pelourinho,
at Salvador's three large malls: Shopping Iguatemi
(the largest in town), Shopping da Barra (centrally
located, next to the main hotels and the beach), and Aeroclube Plaza Show (open
air mall, located north). Salvador has about 2 million inhabitants.
According to the most recent population census, it is the 3rd
largest city in Brazil. Most of Salvador's residents are of African
descent. The main religions are Catholicism, Candomble,
Protestantism, and Spiritism. The most characteristic
feature of Salvador's religious life is known as syncretism. In the
last century the city expanded into the still elegant areas of
Barris and Canela to the south of Cidade Alta, and
up to the exclusive residential suburb of Barra. |
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Lagoa do Abaete
is famous for its crystal water and soft white sands. Located north
Salvador, is one of the most famous spots of town. Next to it there
is a nice restaurant, with live music at night. There is, indeed, a large
number of restaurants serving Bahia traditional dishes in town, buy maybe the
most famous is Restaurante da
Dada, a wonderful
place almost inside the ocean, at Patamares beach, north Salvador.
At night, visit Solar do Unhao, a great restaurant with
delicious meals and live music and dance performed by traditional
dancers from Bahia. |
In Pelourinho area, there are
two very good places to eat:
Mama Bahia (21 Portas do Carmo
St) and Pomerode (33
Alfredo de Brito St).
We have been at both and enjoyed very much the food and music.
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Salvador cuisine is a
mix of Brazilian and African cuisines, with an abundant use of the
coconuts, ginger, shrimp, spices and flavorful dende oil, made from
palms. Hot peppers and
strong spices are usual in almost every dish. Be aware when ordering
a meal that a hot meal means very spicy and a cold meal
means without pepper or spices. At right, a shot of Patamares
Beach. From this point, a coastline
of coves and beaches, large and small, is linked by the twisting
Oceanica Ave,
which runs along the shore through Ondina, Rio Vermelho
and Pituba, the main beach areas. |
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Salvador is still
divided into upper and lower cities, and the main
link among the two parts is Elevador Lacerda (left), a huge
lift that carries thousands of people up and down every day. Beyond,
you can see Todos os Santos Bay, the harbor, and just behind
the lift base, the Mercado Modelo Market, best place in town
to find souvenirs, artcraft, musical instruments and try some exotic
dishes from Bahia, like Vatapa, Acaraje, Abara, Moqueca, Bobo
and much more. In many restaurants and even on the streets you'll
probably find ladies all dressed in white, offering
assortment of Bahia's
dishes. They are called Baianas, and their outfit, as well as
their dishes, is part of the ancients traditions brougth from
Africa. |
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Bahia and Salvador are famous
for its Carnaval, which is totally different from the one in Rio.
Many people enjoy going there at this time of the year, but if you
don't enjoy large crowds we would suggest visit Salvador at any
other season, when you will avoid getting stuck in the transit, an
ocean of people around you, and will be able to enjoy much more all
the beauties of this place. Salvador's
international airport
has flights to many international destinations
as well as all major cities in Brazil. Get more details at
Bahia-online web site, and enjoy
Salvador, heart and soul of oxotic Bahia. |
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Please sign our
Guest Book
This page song is
Na Baixa do Sapateiro, composed by Ary Barroso.
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